Replacing Brick Molding

I see rotted brick molding around doors and windows on over 1/2 of the homes I show as a Realtor®. Today while staining my own house, guess what I found?

I'll take you step-by-step thru the process of replacing brick molding -- it's easy and it's inexpensive!

Tools needed:
- pry bar or other tool to pry the old brick molding from the house
- a piece of scrap wood to pry against so you don't damage the surrounding wood
- razor blade to cut the caulk or paint from the brock molding
- hammer or pneumatic nailer and 1 1/2 " finishing nails
- drill (to pre-drill the holes if you're not using a pneumatic nailer)
- counter sink
- caulk and caulking gun
- paint and brush

1. Cut along the old brick molding with a knife to separate from neighboring trim or siding
2. Insert the pry bar under the old brick molding and gently pry it away from the house, starting at the bottom and working toward the top
--note that there may also be a nail holding the vertical molding to the horizontal piece at the top (and the bottom for windows)
3. Once the old piece is removed, save it if necessary for a template
4. Bring it to the store (I went to Lowe's) to compare to the new piece to ensure the sizes are the same

5. Measure the old piece or use the old piece as a template to mark the cut for the new piece. Dad always told me to measure twice and cut once so make sure you're mark is accurate!
6. Cut a 45 degree miter cut ensuring the cut goes the right way -- the taller stepped portion of the sculpted molding is always on the outside edge once the molding is installed.
7. Hold the new piece in the spot to be installed. Is it the right size? Does it fit?
8. I'd recommend painting before you install it since it may be difficult to paint without getting paint on surrounding surfaces once it's installed
9. Two coats are ideal. I used latex paint and it only took 15-20 minutes between coats.

10. Hold the piece in place and drill holes for the finishing nails -- every 18-24 inches should be sufficient. Make sure the holes are drilled so the nails will go into the wood behind the molding but angled such that the nail's tip won't come thru the exterior of the backing wood.

11. Pound the nails in until they are almost flush with the surface and then use a counter-sink to sink them all so they are approx. 1/8" below the outer molding surface.
12. Caulk the seams - especially where the brick molding meets the door sill (for a door brick molding) and also the nail holes

13. Once the caulk dries (approx. 24 hours), touch up with paint

Voila! Total cost - $10-15 (plus tools)